And back home again: the end of the trip
Welcome back to France. After my epic tour of Ireland, I’m now back in Cherbourg. What next? I’ve traveled all over France, but I find Paris simply fantastic for cycling. From there, I can easily take the TGV to Strasbourg. So, off to Paris!
It’s advisable to book the TGV early. Here, too, the earlier you book, the cheaper it is – and the more likely you are to get a space for your bike. If you’re traveling alone, however, you’re more likely to get a seat.
When I arrived in Cherbourg, I already had my ticket in my pocket.
I had planned just 4.5 days for the 400-kilometer journey. Very ambitious. So off I went! To make sure I didn’t miss the rain in Ireland too much, it continued to rain here. The weather was very similar: rain – sun – rain… maybe a little more sun and definitely wider roads.
⛰️ Mountains, rain, and other problems
From Cherbourg, the first thing I had to do was climb 140 meters in altitude – and in no time at all. While it was still pouring rain at the bottom, the sun was shining at the top. I quickly got warm and spent the whole afternoon putting on and taking off my rain pants.
Then the internet on my smartphone stopped working. Things like that always hold me up because I want to solve the problem immediately. But I couldn’t fix it quickly. So I took refuge at a campsite in Carentan-les-Marais – they’re sure to have Wi-Fi, I thought. That was true, but I couldn’t log in. No one could help me. I knew there was a solution, I just had to find it.
Even I have become so dependent on the internet. And I managed without it for the first 25 years of my cycling tours! I’m sure I would still find my way home, but it’s much easier with information from the internet. It was late in the evening in my tent that I finally figured out how to turn off the security software and got back online. I love problems like this when I can solve them myself in the end—I was almost a little proud of myself. 😉
🍎Highlights in Normandy
The next day started off great. It only rained briefly in the morning, so I was able to pack up my tent while it was still dry. I reached the Calvados department. Of course, I had to find the corresponding drink as a souvenir!
Bayeux was a big surprise. The name rang a bell, and when I saw the sign saying that the cathedral was a World Heritage Site, I remembered. I definitely wanted to see it! Here, the houses are “longitudinally striped” (timber-framed) and the streets are so narrow that traffic literally squeezes through. On Saturday afternoon, it was accordingly busy. But in the midst of the hustle and bustle, I found the perfect souvenir in a small shop: three small bottles of Calvados, aged for different lengths of time, including glasses.
The cathedral was just around the corner—hard to miss. I’ve never seen such beautiful stained glass windows!
Since the town was not destroyed during the war, many old timber-framed houses have been preserved. As my time was limited, I soon moved on. Just in time, before the rain started again. I could have spent those 30 minutes in Bayeux instead of waiting later at a bus stop in the middle of nowhere. 😉
🏕️About muddy paths and wild camping
My GPS wanted to send me along virtually non-existent paths. After getting stuck in the mud, I decided to stay on the road. I had already traveled through the area around Caen a month ago in the opposite direction. I remembered that there were great places for wild camping along the Orne. At that time, it was still too early in the day, but this time it was perfect. No one else came by any more.
The road to Lisieux was a series of ups and downs on small roads. I didn’t follow a bike path, I just wanted to head towards Paris. Lisieux also has a cathedral, but it’s not quite as magnificent as the one in Bayeux. Instead, there is the 20th-century Basilica of Sainte-Thérèse.
After that, it was just a matter of covering the kilometres. There were hardly any villages; the only thing that happened was a drive hunt at the side of the road. And it was the first day I didn’t wear rain trousers! I turned into a forest to set up camp. In France, I sometimes miss the small talk I had with the Irish farmers. My French isn’t that good, and I simply didn’t see any farmers in the fields.
What I noticed: The French honk their horns much more than the Irish. They love the Tour de France and remain calm when a whole group of racing cyclists rides in front of them, but when it comes to me—and perhaps other touring cyclists—they apparently feel the need to honk.
🗼Final sprint to Paris
The night was quiet and the morning beautiful as the sun shone through the trees. First, I rode on large roads to Évreux, then leisurely through small villages again. Some of the bus stops there were equipped with comfortable seats and even bookshelves – fantastic for a break!
The night before Paris, I looked for a campsite, but they are rare there. The one I had my eye on consisted only of permanently installed cabins for permanent campers and was also much more expensive than the nice little Camping Municipaux. So I went back into the forest. Once again, I was glad of my independence. In the evening, there was a rain shower, but also a beautiful rainbow.
Only 50 kilometers to Paris! At first, there was surprisingly little traffic, and the bike paths began early on. The route into the city was beautiful, running along the Seine and past the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower. I just love cycling in Paris—the city has almost overtaken Copenhagen in terms of bicycle-friendliness.
I quickly found my hostel near the Gare de l’Est. I had stayed there last year at the beginning of my trip. It was only 2 p.m., so I was able to check in right away. To celebrate the day, I first went out to eat and then simply wandered through the city to enjoy the atmosphere.
Well, that was it. The next morning at 7:58 a.m., my train left for Strasbourg. Everything went smoothly and on time.
Good to know:
- Weather: It rains in France too! 🤣
- Infrastructure: There aren’t camping municipaux or perfect bike paths everywhere. 😉
- Supplies: Outside the cities, there’s not much going on, but you won’t starve.
- Wild camping: Not officially allowed. I try hard to make sure no one sees me—and if someone does happen to pass by, they usually just give me a friendly smile.
- Acceptance: Cycling is a popular sport, but touring cyclists on the road are not always treated with the same patience by motorists as groups of road cyclists.
On my last stage, I rode an impressive 399 kilometers in four days.
Now I’d be interested to hear about your experiences! Have you ever cycled in France? If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch!
