Finally Ireland
It was around noon when I arrived by ferry in Rosslare in the south of the island. Now I have the 107th country ahead of me that I will travel through by bike. “I can save Ireland until I’m older,” I told myself all these years. Compared to Africa, the deserts, or the Andes, it’s a relatively easy territory for cycling. Now I’m a little older, but I still feel very fit. This year, I didn’t want to go so far or for so long, so Ireland was just right. Many of my friends had already been to the island, with and without bikes, so I already knew quite a bit about it.
First test of Irish friendliness
I was able to test the friendliness of the Irish right away in Rosslare. Rosslare is a small, cozy port. Apart from the terminal, a supermarket, and a gas station, there isn’t much else. It’s a nice, quiet place to start a new adventure. Since it was just around noon, I wanted to ride a little further. But first, I needed to change clothes. So I asked at a restaurant if I could use the restroom. They were very friendly and allowed me to use it right away.
Ireland is supposed to be a bit more expensive. I was able to find that out right away at the supermarket. Yes, fruit, which probably has to be imported, is expensive. I probably won’t eat that much chocolate. I hardly ever drink alcohol on bike tours anyway. Conclusion: if I shop at supermarkets and cook for myself, I can easily spend a few weeks here (of course, I hadn’t booked or planned the return trip).
With full panniers through ideal cycling weather
I set off with my panniers fully loaded. Who knows when I’ll find another supermarket. I always carry enough food to last me a few days, even here, where I don’t have to cross a desert. The one thing I had heard about Ireland that wasn’t true was the weather. Rain and storms? Not at all! It was great cycling weather: sunny, dry, not too hot, just perfect.
When I passed a cemetery, I immediately checked to see if there were any water taps. Great, I can fill up my bottles here. If the water comes from a pipe and a tap, it’s drinkable for me. I cycled to Kilmore. I wanted to stay in this small village with a harbor.
Here, I found confirmation: campsites are not really cheap, especially when you still remember the prices in France, and they are usually not equipped for cyclists. There were only motorhomes parked next to me.
I didn’t care for my first night in Ireland. I always like to get to know the country and its people a bit first before asking if I can camp somewhere or just camping wild. To celebrate the day, I went into the village and ate a portion of chips (without fish). Here, too, it’s still summer holidays in mid-August and there’s a lot going on. There were lots of young families out and about. I had to smile because another cliché was fulfilled here too: there are lots of red-haired children.
Greenways and fantastic views
Here I am on EuroVelo 1. This section is the “Wild Atlantic Route.” On Sunday morning, everything was still nice and quiet. I skipped a few loops of the EuroVelo route. The panoramic routes are also beautiful for drivers, but there isn’t enough room for both of us on the narrow roads. At some point, I had seen enough of the coast; not much changes there.
I found a great spot for a break at a small bay, a small patch of grass with tables and benches. Also a good place to camp, I thought. A respectable older gentleman approached me. We had a very nice chat, as I often did with Irish people later on. He said in all seriousness that I could camp here too. That’s very good news.
Later, I got onto a four-lane road, but luckily there was a wide bike path for me to ride on past Waterford. Fortunately, there was also a large shopping center with various stores along the route, some of which were open on Sundays. Let’s go, I still need cartridges. Remember, it was a public holiday in France. I actually found some and bought two, so I don’t have to look for any more. After that, I had my first experience with the Irish “greenways,” the Waterford Greenway. A beautiful bike path on a former railway line, isolated from other traffic.
Staying overnight on private property
Here, too, a man told me I could camp anywhere, I didn’t even have to ask. When there are people around, I like to have permission. Five kilometers later, I asked a man where I could pitch my tent. That’s another big advantage of Ireland: I speak the language and can simply ask. He immediately showed me a wonderful spot on a meadow, which even had tables and benches. I slept much better there than at the campsite. Without earplugs; it was so nice and quiet that I hardly wanted to get up the next day.
Actually, it would be time for a rest day. But when and where? That’s the disadvantage of only having a place to stay for one night. Then I can’t really say the next day, “It’s so nice here. I’ll stay another day.” If I promise to leave early the next day, then I will. And I’ll take all my rubbish with me.
The next day, I discovered another nice characteristic of the Irish. I continued along the coast on narrow roads. These routes are also very attractive for motorists, which made me want to find another route. The road I wanted to take instead was closed. I asked the worker guarding the roadblock whether the road was also closed to me. Where I wanted to go? Just through, there’s too much traffic on the other road. He let me go and told me to slow down because of the construction vehicles. A glance at all my luggage and I had to laugh; he understood and laughed too. It was wonderful. No cars and a great view of the entire coastline from above.
Another very pleasant and funny conversation with the construction workers followed. I don’t need much entertainment, but such nice conversations lift my spirits.
Hospitality and a shower
A quick stop in Youghal, a small old Viking town with an ALDI 😉, where I was able to stock up on supplies.
After a short stretch on a greenway, I was back on a country road. When I saw a tent in a garden, I convinced the owner that my tent would fit nicely next to it. Skeptical at first, he then liked the idea; he brought me a 5-liter canister of water and gave me his password for the internet. Before he drove away, he wanted to give me the key to his cottage. But I didn’t want it.
Another wonderfully peaceful night. I love Ireland and the Irish people. The next evening, I found another nice spot at a horse farm.
I was immediately invited into the large, interesting farmhouse and was even offered a shower. I felt great again! Normally, I love wild camping. I love camping on private property even more, with permission, of course. Firstly, it provides me with some conversation and I learn more about Ireland – for example, that this is the warmest summer since 1976 (the year keeps changing 😉). Secondly, I don’t have to wait until it’s dark, but can pitch my tent straight away. Thirdly, I usually get enough water and maybe even a shower.
Route selection and remembering history
The tour in Ireland was a real pleasure right from the start. At least as long as the weather was fantastic for cycling. Slowly, the coastal road became too unpleasant for me. I didn’t want to be on those narrow, winding roads where two cars can barely pass each other, with me in between. I preferred the N71. Surprisingly, there was far less traffic, the road was wider and not as winding; I had a great view and felt safer. Besides, I always feel better when I don’t follow predetermined routes, but go my own way. And so I didn’t have to ride every loop of the bike route.
In Skibbereen, I was reminded of the great famine in the 19th century. It was caused by a potato disease and politics. Those who didn’t die emigrated. For a change, I stayed at a beautiful campsite right by the sea.
Shortly before, I had met two young cyclists again, whom I kept running into. We went there together. For me, it was an opportunity to wash and make further plans. In the meantime, I realized that the earlier I booked the ferry back to France, the cheaper it would be. But when and from where? If not a whole day of rest, then at least half a day. It was around noon when I set off again with a fully charged power bank.
Adventure at Priest Leap: Help from an unexpected side
The woman at the campsite showed me a route to Kenmare on the map that is supposed to be the most beautiful for cyclists: Priest Leap Circle. Luckily, I didn’t know beforehand how high it was. Except for the first few kilometers, it was all gravel road. No question, it was beautiful. Especially because there were hardly any cars. First came a father with his adult son. They had driven up and were continuing on foot. At first, the father insisted on pushing my bike. However, he didn’t last long. Then his son took over. He was more ambitious and pushed until the road started to slope down a little. We had another very amusing conversation along the way.
It only went downhill briefly before climbing steeply again. A wonderful picnic spot came just at the right time. The table and chairs were made of huge rocks, as was the tabletop. From there, I had a great view of where I had come from—and where I had to go: still high above the ridge. No worries, I know I’ll make it. Just keep pushing forward calmly.
Then another car came along, a larger Volvo. A jolly little man was sitting in it. He was quite surprised to see me there. After a brief greeting, he stopped and was on the phone. I continued on my way. Shortly afterwards, he caught up with me again. He had been talking to his wife on the phone. She had suggested that he could help me. Somehow, it was very amusing from the start. Of course, I had nothing against help. I know I can do it, but I don’t have to prove anything to anyone anymore. So why not accept help?
First, he offered to take my luggage up to the pass. Once all my panniers were inside, he suggested we could fit my bike in too. So I reached the pass much faster than expected, and in a more fun and entertaining way than I could ever have imagined.
As so often, once I was up on the ridge, I didn’t feel like heading back down to civilization. Jerry completely understood. He had driven up to Priest Leap Point (463 meters above sea level) to test a hiking trail. Then a motorcyclist in full leather gear came up. The three of us, completely different characters, had a wonderful chat up there. Something like that probably only happens in Ireland.
On the Ring of Kerry and some solitude
No choice eventually I had to descend again on the other side to Kenmare. I quickly ate a portion of chips, rested my legs, and continued on to the Ring of Kerry. Once again, it was a nice climb. The best part was that in no time at all, I was away from civilization again.
Wonderful lakes and lots of open countryside. Found another wonderful place to camp (with permission). The peninsulas in the southwest of Ireland are quite challenging. The passes aren’t high, but when you have one pass after another, you end up climbing quite a few meters in altitude.
On Ballaghbeama Gap, I met another cyclist for the first time. Although it was very windy and cool up there, we chatted for a while. He was traveling in the opposite direction.
These are always the best sources of information. Then down and back up again to Ballaghisheen Pass. It was even steeper and higher. Fortunately, the climbs aren’t very long. A couple on road bikes struggled their way up and made fun of my luggage. I just said, “At least I don’t have to go back to my car.”
I quickly passed through a holiday village, bought something to eat at the supermarket and continued on my way. There are still a few surf spots here. – And up again, how could it be otherwise. In a bend, there was a long driveway leading to a gate onto a pasture. My place to camp, my first time really camping in the wild here. It was already late and I definitely didn’t want to go any higher. I can do that tomorrow.
Kerry Cliffs and the Dingle Peninsula
It rained during the night. In the morning, there was thick fog. And that was precisely where I wanted to pass the most beautiful rocks of the Ring of Kerry! I was in no hurry in the morning. I still had the last 500 m (length) to the top ahead of me.
After that, it was all downhill. I arrived at the Kerry Cliffs early. Not only was there a couple there with me, but the sun also came out. So despite the fog in the morning, I had a wonderful view of the wild cliffs and the roaring surf.
I cycled to the Dingle Peninsula via smaller islands.
There was quite a bit of traffic on the road on Saturday. There are probably some nice weekend destinations at the end of the peninsula. I didn’t want to ride much further and was lucky once again. A farmer was busy near his gate and immediately let me camp on his pasture. The next day, with far less traffic, I rode to the end of the island, to the small port town of Dingle. On Sunday, there was a lot going on in this very beautiful, colorful place. As usual, I only took a short break before continuing northeast.
Proud on the Conor Pass
As I checked the route ahead, I realized there was another pass coming up. And not just any pass, but one of the highest paved passes in Ireland, at 456 meters above sea level: Conor Pass. After Priest Leap, nothing could shock me anymore. I knew I could do it. After the training sessions of the last few days, it was almost a piece of cake. I was able to ride the whole way and was very proud when I reached the top. There was a lot going on, but I was the only one with a bike. Despite the cold wind, I really enjoyed the view.
Since the further road is closed to motorhomes, it was a relief to whizz down along the rocks. I spent the evening on the lawn of a pub owner, which he offers especially for hikers and cyclists. With a fantastic view, I spent a very peaceful night there.
For me, this isn’t the end of the journey 😉
You’ll find out how the journey continued northward next time.
Good to know:
- Weather: Ireland also has good weather. And when it rains, it stops again. Only when a hurricane comes can it last longer.
- Tempo: Ireland is a place to enjoy, not to rush through. Take time for a chat at the roadside. That way you will learn a lot about the country and its people. Irish people (the ones I met) have a great sense of humor.
- Camping: Irish people are incredibly nice and friendly. Especially in rural areas, you will have no problem getting permission to stay overnight on someone’s property.
- Road Safety: In the south, when there are no big cities nearby, it may be safer to ride on an “N” road (national road) rather than on the narrow, winding coastal roads during the holiday season.
Of course, I would also be very interested to hear about your experiences. Please write them in the comments—and feel free to ask any questions you may have.
