Arrival in Busan: First impressions
I arrive in Busan early in the morning on the ferry. I immediately notice two striking differences between Koreans and Japanese: On the one hand, I find Koreans less polite, as they often push in front of others. On the other hand, I am pleased that someone immediately helps me with my luggage – a gesture that I missed at the beginning in Japan. I spend the first day in Busan and discover further contrasts. It is obvious that South Korea, at least in Busan, is dirtier than Japan.
Homeless people are visible, traffic is chaotic and loud, and I find markets on the streets, which would be unthinkable in Japan due to hygiene concerns.
Start of the 4 River Tour: Across the country
It’s Sunday when I start the 4 River Tour, a cycling route that runs from Busan to Seoul and crosses the country.
There are numerous checkpoints along the route where I can get a stamp in my “passport.” At the start—or end, depending on which direction you cycle—I meet lots of cyclists. I actually just want a map, but then I get caught up in the moment and buy the “passport” as well. Shortly afterwards, I get my first stamp.
At first, I fear that the journey along the beautiful but somewhat remote bike paths might be boring. I assume that I will at least have to leave the paths to go shopping.
Encounters and challenges along the way
But after five days on the road and eleven stamps, I’m not bored at all. Every day I meet other cyclists. On Sunday, I meet two Korean couples..
It’s the last warm day, and we picnic together and share our food – an experience I missed in Japan. In the evening, news arrives that a cold snap is on its way. However, that doesn’t stop me and the other cyclists. Over the next few days, I meet Taiwanese, Canadians, Italians… How could I possibly get bored?
I’m coping surprisingly well with the long, flat stretches. They are a welcome relief before the next steep climb. I’ve never pushed my bike as much as I have here, which makes the flat sections in between all the more enjoyable.
Moments of tranquility and colorful scenery
I enjoy the morning atmosphere the most: when the sun slowly rises after a freezing cold night, everything is still very quiet, I am all alone on the track, and I slowly start to warm up.
Although this time of year isn’t ideal in terms of temperature, I’m rewarded with fantastic autumn colors. The red of the maple trees is simply magnificent.
The pass and special encounters
The only really high mountain turns out to be far less steep and long than people say. Yes, it’s uphill for a few kilometers, but it’s all rideable. And then the mountain is only 540 meters high.
Once again, I am the only woman and the only cyclist with luggage on the pass. And I also look like the oldest – certainly not the oldest person there. Either the first question is, “Are you married?” or “How old are you?” One cyclist says to me, “You look old.” Very nice! That’s probably why they’re all so kind to me and always give me something to eat. On the mountain, a man gives me two apples – almost a luxury item here!
The wind up there blows away all the warmth I’ve worked so hard to generate. Unfortunately, there’s no such thing as hot wine here, so I treat myself to a magnolia blossom tea in a restaurant. It’s amazing what you can drink – and it doesn’t taste too bad. After that, it’s a wonderful ride back downhill along the rocks.
The cold and the escape to Seoul
It’s getting colder and colder; at night it’s now well below 0 degrees. My pockets are full of frost in the morning.
Nevertheless, it’s wonderful: it’s dry, and I know that soon the sun will come out and make everything better again.
When I see that the weather will change in two days, I decide to cycle to Seoul and stay in a hostel..
If wet weather and perhaps snow were to be added to the cold, I wouldn’t want to be traveling with a tent anymore. On Sundays, the bike path is always busier, but not as much as the week before. It is now also about 10 degrees colder. I cycle on a former railway line, which I don’t really like – only when I’m in a hurry is it great. I’m riding very fast. There is more going on at a bike rental station. I completely miss the “Certification Center” next to it. I’m still on the hunt for stamps. When I notice it, I’m six kilometers further on and don’t want to go back.
My ambition to get all the stamps diminishes considerably with the temperature. Now I just want to get to Seoul. The last stamp is another 20 kilometers outside the capital. That would be another 40 kilometers there and back – no thanks.
Arrival in Seoul and birthday celebrations
It’s another fantastic blue sky as I cycle along the Hangang River into the city on Monday morning. But it’s very cold. Let’s get to the hostel! However, I still need to find an ATM, which isn’t that easy in South Korea. Many ATMs don’t accept foreign cards.
It is not until the afternoon that I finally arrive at the hostel. It is located in the heart of Myeongdong, one of Seoul’s most important shopping and tourist districts.
I can park my bike in the underground garage and finally take a shower again. Lucky me! During the night, it actually starts to rain and even snow lightly. The subway system in Seoul is so genial; I can get everywhere without my bike and can even use it to get a bike box for my flight to Taiwan and transport it. On Wednesday, it snows heavily.
I actually want to go to a museum, but after walking 100 meters from the subway station, I am already white, wet, and cold. Let’s go back. I can go by subway all over the city, but I don’t see much of Seoul.
Thursday is my birthday. The sun is shining, and I treat myself to something special. In Korea, as in Japan, there are hot baths, which are called jjimjilbang here. What could be better in this cold weather? Add a back massage to that – great!
Farewell to Korea
At -7 degrees Celsius, I board the plane on Friday morning, glad to escape the cold temperatures. The tour of Korea is much shorter than planned. I’d love to come back and see the rest.
Next time, I’ll continue in warmer climes, in my third and last country for now.